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My 5 Star Home

Luxury in the home for less

  • New Year, New Home, New You

    January is known to be everyone's New Year's resolutions month.

    Most common resolutions are about getting in shape, reaching some milestone, traveling more, quitting bad habits, having better quality of life. There is a high probability you’ve defined one or two for yourself this year, but have you thought about a resolution for your home?

    We spend a lot of time at home - sleeping, eating, relaxing, celebrating, receiving guests and finding comfort in. And there are many different things we possess that keep us happy.

    What makes your house a home? Cotton bed sheets, that you miss when you’re traveling; dream walk-in closet, that has shelves to store everything what’s needed; scented candles, that make your home smell like no other; wall decorations, that your friends made for your birthday.

    With time we accumulate things. When your house is cluttered, it might be hard to focus on things that really matter. It might feel like you already own too many things, but still not completely happy with the way your place looks. Another situation is when there’s not enough things to make it feel like home. Either way, decluttering your home is something we suggest you start your resolution with. Here are some easy steps that you can follow.

    Firstly, think about your goal. What would you like to achieve? There are endless options of how to clean, reorganise, redecorate, make over your apartment. Use your imagination or feel welcome to check our Pinterest board for inspiration here.

    After making sure that you have a clear vision, it's time clean up. Most people have emotional attachment to things that the they own, so starting with little steps will help you reach your goal with no stress.

    To start, look around your house and make sure there is no broken furniture. If there is some, try to fix it as soon as possible; if the damage is too big - consider giving it away or replacing it.

    Next, get rid of product packaging that you've left from your purchases - carton boxes take a lot of space and make place look more messy.

    And if you're wondering where to store your things - check out our range of storage boxes.

    Natural Linen Storage box, AED 39

    Examine and throw away expired products such as medicine, food and beauty items. There is no use in them.

    Discard bedding that doesn't fit your bed, is damaged or worn out. After all, there's no better feeling than sleeping in the new bedsheets. Click at the link down below to check our unique collection of bedding!

    Elegant Navy Blue and Beige Abstract Print Duvet Cover Set, AED 110

    Classy Maroon Floral and Stripes Print Duvet Cover Set, AED 110

    Get rid of worn out towels if there are holes or stains. New, fluffy, warm towels right here, a click away. Your body will thank you!

    Cream Egyptian Cotton Towel Set x 6, AED 129

    Examine your Kitchen accessories. Kitchen has many different types of items stored in it. Check for broken utensils, damaged tupperware, cracked mugs and chipped plates. Get rid of them. Buying a couple of new, shiny kitchen sets will boost your motivation to spend more time in the kitchen.

    24 Piece Steel Spoon set, AED 47

    If you still have power left, take a look at your wardrobe - find clothes that you don't wear and consider giving them away. If you're not ready to say goodbye to them yet, put them in a box and re-visit in 6 month.

    To support you with your resolutions we'll be dedicating one post each month to give you house organisation, shopping ideas and decor tips using items from our online store.

    To check out products that are mentioned, just click on one of the pictures in this post.

    Happy New You!

  • Kitchen Utensils - why you need them and how to shop for the best deals online?

    Utensil Sets

    Equipping a kitchen with all the right utensils takes time. The best way to jump start your kitchen on the path to having a complete set of tools is by finding a kitchen utensil set with a spatula, slotted spoon, and mixing spoon. Kitchen utensil sets are useful because they have a coordinated group of essential kitchen tools that make it easy to perform all the basic kitchen tasks. The best kitchen utensil sets also come with a utensil crock, so you don’t have to chase them around drawers and cabinets. You will find that utensil sets have unique materials, designs, and styles. You can find the right utensil set to match any style of home, from traditional to contemporary. The main purpose of kitchen utensils is to give you the tools you need to cook your way to a delicious meal. Utensil sets vary by material, the number of utensils in the set, and overall design.

    Utensil sets, spatula sets

    There are different types of kitchen utensil sets that you can use for baking or cooking. One of the best baking utensil sets to have is one with spatulas. A spatula set typically has three different sizes of spatulas. Most spatula sets have at least three spatulas that vary by size, from extra small to large. The different sizes of spatulas help you frost the hard to reach corners of brownies, cupcakes, and cake. The larger spatulas are great for mixing, folding, and scraping down the sides of your mixing bowl. The smallest spatula is best for frosting cupcakes. Large spatulas can make a mess of trying to frost smaller sweets and pastries, like sugar cookies. A spatula set is perfect for the adventurous home baker who wants to pull out desserts like the professionals.

    Utensil sets, cooking sets

    Kitchen utensil sets are also great for stirring, tasting, and serving your favorite appetizers and entrees. Basic kitchen utensil sets typically come with four to six pieces, including two mixing spoons, a spatula, and a slotted spoon. This type of basic kitchen utensil set gives you the ability to do everything you need to do on the stovetop, like boiling, sautéing, and frying. A slotted spoon is especially helpful for tasting foods to find out when they are tender and done. You can use a slotted spoon on pasta, vegetables, and soup. A kitchen utensil set typically comes with thicker spatulas that are made from wood or metal. These help you flip tough-to-move foods like pancakes and steak. The best kitchen utensil sets come with just enough pieces to give you the freedom to dream up new recipes in the kitchen.

    Utensil sets, Deluxe

    Deluxe kitchen utensil sets have at least six kitchen utensils, including a ladle, slotted spoon, serving fork, tongs and a serving spoon. These types of kitchen utensil sets give you more functionality while cooking in the kitchen. You won’t have to hassle with using a fork to turn over meet or pieces of tofu. A slotted spoon is especially helpful if you like making soup during the week.

    My 5 Star Home for your Kitchen Needs

    At My 5 Star Home, we try to make sure you always have many options for your home. That's why we have so many Utensil Sets for sale on our site, including Utensil Sets from brands like Cuisinart and Chef Craft. We want to make sure when you're looking for where to buy Utensil Sets online, you're getting the one that's exactly right for you, whether that's the Portobello 6 Piece Bamboo Kitchen Tool Set, the 7-Piece Utensil Set, or something entirely different and unique to your home. We have thousands of great deals every day with no need for a coupon. There's never been a better time to " My 5 Star Home my Utensil Sets".

    Shop online for the best deal in the UAE with next day delivery guaranteed in Dubai. All your bathroom accessories need available on My 5 Star Home

  • Where to buy best deal bedding sets and duvet cover in Dubai?

    Best deal bedding sets and duvet cover in Dubai?

    Bedding set and duvet covers may bring modern style or fresh design to your bedroom within minutes. It is cheerful to change your bedroom look and feel from time to time. This boosts your well-being and positive energy and brings more joy to your life.

    In this blog post, we will list where you can find good quality bedding sets for best prices in Dubai and other UAE cities.

    Which bedding works best for you?

    First, let's have a look at what kind of bedding set work best for your lifestyle and routine!

    Duvet or Comforter?

    A duvet is a soft, flat bag filled with down or synthetic fibers. The name refers to this insert and is sold separately from duvet covers or other coordinating bed linens. If you hate making the bed, a duvet with a cover can be used instead of a top sheet and blanket, which can save time and stress. While a duvet cover should be machine washable, duvets themselves are usually dry-cleaned.

    A comforter is covered in fashion fabric and filled with down or synthetic fibers. It’s then stitched to keep the fill in place. Comforters are often part of a “bed-in-a-bag” set with coordinating sheets and pillow shams, which help to decorate rookies create a polished, cohesive look. Sold according to bed size, comforters are designed to be larger than the bed and hang down the sides. Care is easy with a comforter – just wash with your other bedding.

    Things to consider about duvets:

    • is best paired with a protective duvet cover
    • style can be easily changed by changing duvet cover
    • a top sheet not necessary
    • is sold by bed size
    • is closer in size to bed, less hangover on sides
    • is not easily laundered at home

    Things to consider about comforters:

    • no duvet cover is needed
    • not as easy to change the style
    • the top sheet is necessary
    • is sold by bed size
    • is larger sized than bed, more hangover on sides
    • is easily laundered at home


    Where to shop for bedding in Dubai?

    Once you decided what works best for you, you need to decide either to shop at a physical location or online?

    Where to shop for best deal bedding sets and duvet covers in Dubai?

    UAE has many shops specialized in home décor and bedding items some of them are specialized and other are more generalist.

    Here are top 5 shops to buy bedding sets in Dubai:

    1. Ikea: Ikea, the Scandinavian chain selling ready-to-assemble furniture, plus housewares, in a warehouse-like space. AddressAl Rebat Road, Dubai Festival City - Dubai Hours:  Open daily from 10AM–11PM
    2. Home center: Home Centre is a leading home retailer with a wide network of over 90 stores across GCC, Egypt, Lebanon and the Indian Subcontinent. Offer products from a wide selection of furniture, home decor & accessories, cookware and tabletop, kids collections, outdoor furniture & home office items, Home Centre has everything for a happier, brighter home
    3. Crate and Barrel: Crate and Barrel, the International home furnishings retail store Crate and Barrel was founded in Chicago in 1962 by retailing pioneers Gordon and Carole Segal.  One can only imagine the office parties they had. Table for three, please. Fast forward 40 years. And did it ever go fast. Today's Crate and Barrel family has grown to 150 stores and over 7,000 associates nationwide. And, we might add, still grow.
    4. PAN Emirates: PAN Emirates is a premier home furnishings & online furniture shopping store in Dubai, UAE. We help furnish & decor your home with a variety of premium quality modern & contemporary furniture for living room, bedroom, dining room, outdoor, beds, mattress, sofa sets…
    5. Department stores: Gallerie Lafayette, Robinsons, Harvey Nicholes, Bloomingdale... These stores sell top brand beddings, very expensive.


    Top 5 Online shops for bedding sets:

    1. My 5 star home: You can shop for bedding sets, bed sheets, bed covers, bathroom accessories, Kitchen appliances and various other home decor items.
    2. Souq.ae
    3. Bedlinenz
    4. Chenonehome.com
    5. Amara.com
  • Shopping for a duvet cover? here what you need to know

    How to choose the right bedding?

    Snuggly and warm, a well-chosen duvet will keep you cozy and sleeping soundly through the coldest winter nights, yet not be excessively hot or heavy during the summer. But when shopping for a new duvet, the choices can be a bit confusing. What does fill power mean? Which is better, down or an alternative? Channel or baffle construction? Read on for tips on choosing your perfect bedding set.

    Duvet versus Comforter versus Duvet Cover

    Three terms that might cause you confusion are “duvet,” “comforter,” and “duvet cover.” Though often used interchangeably, there are actually differences between them.

    A duvet cover surrounds a duvet like an envelope. While duvets are usually white, their covers come in a nearly endless choice of colors and patterns. Duvet covers are sewn shut on three sides, but the fourth side closes with large buttons, ties or a zipper, so you can remove or insert the duvet easily. It’s not essential to use a duvet cover, but most people like their decorative impact, as well as the way they help keep the duvet clean.

    Duvet Thread Count

    The outer shell of a duvet is typically cotton, and as with cotton sheets, has a thread count that indicates how many threads are contained in a square inch of fabric.

    While a higher thread count means softer material -- making it a major factor in sheet comfort -- with duvets, it’s also important because the denser weave does a better job of containing the down. Your duvet should have a thread count of at least 300, but there’s no need to pay extra for much higher than that, especially if you are going to use a duvet cover anyway.

    There are a couple of choices when it comes to duvet fillings.

    • Down: When it comes to lightweight warmth and superior breathability, it’s hard to beat the power of down. After all, ducks and geese manage to stay toasty warm in chilly water, so why not put that same insulating, cozy warmth to work on your bed?

    When choosing a down-filled duvet, look for the words “100% down,” “Pure down” or “All down.” If the duvet is only marked “down,” it might contain as little as 30% down with feathers making up the remaining 70% of fill. Feathers don’t insulate nearly as well as down, but they are far less expensive, so you’ll need to pay more for an all-down duvet. While both duck and goose down are warm, goose down is fluffier, so generally it’s used in all but the cheapest of duvets.

    If allergens are a concern, look for a duvet with cleaned, sterilized down. This removes the majority of potential allergens, making the down suitable for most sleepers.

    • Down alternatives: If you are highly allergic to feathers, choose a duvet with a down-alternative fill. These are generally synthetic materials, particularly polyester, that have a similar feel to down, but you’ll also find cotton or wool-filled duvets.

    These all have the benefit of being hypoallergenic, as well as less expensive than 100% down, but are typically heavier and less breathable than the real thing.

    What about Fill power?

    You’ll often find a down duvet’s fill power listed on the packaging. Fill power is basically a measurement of the down’s fluffiness: it refers to how much space one ounce of the down occupies. The better the quality of down, the higher its fill power, and the thicker and more insulating the duvet. As a rough rule of thumb, here’s a guide to comfortable fill powers:

    • Lightweight, summer use: 400 or below
    • Great any time of year: 400 to 600
    • In cold weather, or if you easily chill at night: 600 to 800
    • When you really, really need extra warmth: 800 and up

    What’s the Fill weight?

    The number of ounces of down inside a duvet is its fill weight.

    Generally, down with a high fill power will have a low fill weight, meaning that a very warm, high fill-power duvet might actually be lighter than a duvet that’s better suited for warmer weather due to its low fill power. It’s the balance between fill weight and fill power that determines a duvet’s warmth. You'll sleep best when you're not too hot, not too cold.

    Look at the Duvet’s Construction

    A duvet without construction, or extra stitching, would allow the down to shift, creating lumps and pockets instead of an even spread of fill. To prevent this, duvets have a variety of different constructions to keep the down contained evenly throughout the bedding.

    • Baffle box: The warmest and generally most expensive duvets have baffle-box construction. This means there are small fabric baffles inside the duvet’s “checkerboard” construction to hold the down in place while allowing it to reach maximum loft.
    • Quilt stitching: These duvets have the same quilted checkerboard appearance as baffle box duvets, but without the reinforcing fabric strips. You’ll pay less for this type of construction, which is suitable for lower fill-power duvets.
    • Channel: These duvets have parallel seams only, so instead of a checkerboard pattern, there are “channels” across the bedding. This allows the down to shift somewhat inside the duvet, a good solution if you want more down across your feet, or if your bed partner prefers less warmth on his side of the bed.
    • Gusset: These duvets have fabric “walls” around the sides, giving the duvet more height, and therefore more loft. Gusseted duvets are usually Baffle-stitched as well. You’ll pay more for these duvets, but you’ll be rewarded with superior cozy warmth.
  • How to Get Started - Oil Painting For Beginners

    How to Get Started - Oil Painting For Beginners

    So are you a total beginner to painting or do you have some experience in painting with other mediums? Well either way there are some key facts that you will need to start you off on the right track. To a certain extent you can do whatever you like with acrylics, just keep piling the paint on until you get what you are looking for but with oils it is slightly different.

    So, to start with you will need some materials. The art shops have a huge selection of materials to choose from and this can be quite daunting if you don't really know what you are looking for. In addition to all the numerous paint colours you can chose from there are a wide variety of mediums, brushes, painting surfaces etc.


    Let's look at paint to start with. There are 2 main types of oil paint in terms of quality - student colours and artist's colours. Student oils paints are often cheaper than artists as they don't use the expensive pigments and are produced in larger quantities. The colour strength might be slightly lower than artists' quality oils but really these are good enough if you are starting out and are often used by professional artists in conjunction with the higher pigment colours of artists' oils or as base colours before using artists' oils for the top layer. So to start off with you need only have a basic selection of 10 or 12 tubes of paint. You can often buy the starter boxes which contain a lot of the colours that you might need.

    Painting Mediums

    In addition to the paint you will need to get some thinners and also a bottle of painting medium. There are so many options with regard to painting medium but to start off with you can just chose to use linseed oil and as you go on and experiment more try different types of medium and how they affect the paint and help or hinder with your style of painting.


    So, then you will need some brushes. These also come in so many different types and sizes. It may well depend on what style of painting you are planning to do as to what brushes you need. For example if you are going to paint realistically in fine detail you may want smaller round brushes but if you are going to paint big abstract blended paintings then go for big softer flat brushes. I may be contentious in advising this but when you are just starting out, especially if you are just going to be testing out various techniques I would advise getting some cheap brushes to see what kind of shape and size you prefer to use. The main problems with cheaper brushes in my opinion are that firstly, some of the hairs may come out whilst you are painting and secondly, the brushes may not retain their shape as well. Advantages are that you don't buy expensive brushes that you subsequently decide are not the right type for you. Once you have decided your painting style and which brushes are suitable for that you can then buy the more expensive ones. For me, as an abstract artist, I also prefer the much softer (and for some reason cheaper) big brushes that blend the paint really nicely and don't leave so many brush strokes. I will use the brush firstly on a test painting and that will generally get rid of any of the lose hairs so hardly any will come off on my actual painting.


    Then of course you need something to paint on! The main choice in art shops is between stretched canvas and canvas board. There are obviously a lot of alternatives but to start with choose either a board or a canvas that is primed and suitable for oils (just read the label or chose one of the more common makes like Daley-Rowney or Winsor & Newton). Maybe choose a small one to start with just to get to grips with the medium.

    Once you have your paint and your surface or support (canvas) you can start! You will also need a palette of some kind but you can use anything from disposable plates, to a piece of wood, a proper palette from the art shop or a book of disposable palettes (saves on messy palettes hanging around as you can just throw them away!). Plastic palettes are useful as they usually have little sections that you can pour your medium into and use whilst you are painting.

    What to Paint

    So, now you can start. But what do you paint? If you are really just starting out then you may want to get a book that gives you a step-by-step guide as to how to paint a particular scene or painting, then you can learn the methods used to bring the painting to life. Otherwise you may have a favourite photo or a picture from the internet or even an old master that you want to recreate. I really think that trying to copy something that someone has already done is a good way to learn about techniques as it pushes you to try and think about how to do something and in doing so you learn these new techniques that you might not have learnt otherwise.


    Whatever you are trying to paint, you should use a number of layers to build up the painting and not try to complete it all in one go! When I say this I mean the following: For the first layer, use the paint 'watered' down with thinners. This is starting the painting using the 'fat over lean' method. In basic terms when you apply paint, the most oily layer (fat) should be on top of the layer with least oil (lean i.e. containing thinners) underneath. If you don't use this method then your painting might subsequent have cracks in it where the different layers of paint dry at different speeds.

    There are many different schools of thought as to how to actually paint and what colours to use and this article is not going to be encompassing enough to go through those. Basically on the first layer apply it with thinners in a loose manner (i.e. the painting does not have to be precise at this stage). The main aim is to cover all of the canvas with some paint to provide a foundation. As you apply more and more layers - the number of layers is up to you - the paint should have more oil in it as you go on. So for example in the next layer you could use half linseed oil and half thinners as a medium and then the layer after linseed oil with no thinners.

    Cleaning Brushes

    The common school of thought is to clean brushes with turps or a specific brush cleaner. However, I find it better (I think on the environment as well as the smell and keeping the brushes for longer) to use soap and warm water. Soap can be just a simple soap or you can use washing up liquid. Make the brush wet then build up a lather with the soap. Rinse out the paint with warm water and repeat until the brush is clean.

    Oil paints do take a reasonable time to dry - particularly if you compare them to acrylics. Paint with more thinners in will dry quicker however and you can also buy mediums that will make the paint dry quicker (e.g. liquin). The first layer with thinners should dry reasonably quickly, particularly if you are using earthy colours. It is up to you if you wait for the layers to dry, quite often this depends on the type of painting you are doing, or if you add subsequent layers on top of the wet paint. If you do this then just be careful to work in definite strokes and to clean your brush often so that the paint does not 'muddy' and mix layers together more than you would like.


    So in summary, for the complete beginner in oils I would say this. Get yourself a box of student oil paints, some thinners, some linseed oil, a palette, 2 or 3 brushes in different sizes, and a canvas. Choose a subject or get a book that gives you step by step instructions. Paint in layers 'fat over lean'. Keep practising!

    There have been lots of books written on the subject and I would advise you if you are really serious about painting with oils to get hold of one that gives you all the detailed information but this article is just to give you a few hints and tips to start you off.

    The author has been a professional artist for 5 years and supplies paintings to individuals, interior designers and hotels in addition to having a passion for art spanning over 30 years!

    For more info on beginning oil painting and which supplies to get check out my other articles: How To Use Oil Paints and How To Make Oil Paint Dry Quicker.

    Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Marian_Lishman/541543

    My5Starhome View latest painting & wall Hanging in UAEhttps://www.my5starhome.com/living-902/painting-and-wall-hangings.html

  • How to Use Paint and Choose Paint Finishes For Your Home

    How to Use Paint and Choose Paint Finishes For Your Home

    Essential Guide to Paint

    Paint is your passport to colour and arguably the easiest, least costly and most immediate way to transform a home. It can be as simple as brilliant white, but that would exclude all the other drop-dead gorgeous colours. Paradoxically, it's the vast choice that often poses a problem - there are just so many brands, types and shades on the market.

    Choose from historical hues for period homes; sleek chalky finishes that stand up to the rigours of modern life; or new formulas designed to suit all surfaces. By understanding the product you can unleash all the design possibilities of paint that make it such a tempting medium.

    Types of Paint

    Water-based paints are usually referred to as emulsions and were traditionally used only for interior walls and ceilings. But recently tremendous advances in paint technology mean that water-based formulas, especially the high-performing acrylics, are available for all surfaces, from woodwork to metal, and for interior and exterior use. The advantages of these paints over oil-based ones is that they are cleaner, have less odour and are more environmentally sound. Brushes can be rinsed clean with water.

    Solvent or oil-based paints are used where a tough, durable finish is required for interior and exterior timber, masonry and furniture - although, as mentioned above, the new generation of acrylics and multi-surface paints offers viable alternatives. In general, brushes need to be cleaned with turpentine or white spirit.

    Make-up and quality All paints are made of four key ingredients: pigments, binders, liquids and additives. Generally speaking, the more pigment used to make the paint, the better the quality it will be: a ratio of 30 to 45 per cent binder and pigments by volume indicates a paint that will be durable and provide good coverage and lasting colour. Consider the following when you are faced with a wall of paint pots and are struggling with what to buy.

    Pick a brand you can trust Companies with their own high-street shops, such as Fired Earth and Farrow & Ball, and those that sell through the DIY giants are the most accessible. However, buying paint online is increasingly popular and can bring you a wider choice, especially if you live outside major towns and cities.

    Go for good coverage Look at the figures per litre not for the whole can; 12sq m per litre is average. Coverability varies between brands, making the difference between needing two or three coats. You will generally find more pigment in premium paints, giving a greater depth of colour.

    Select the right product. There is a dedicated paint for practically every surface, including tiles and appliances, such as fridges. For high-traffic areas consider scuff-resistant multi-surface paints that can be used on both wood and walls. Kitchens and bathrooms benefit from specialist formulas designed to cope with humidity without flaking.

    Try before you buy Colour cards are fine for making an initial selection but you will want to see a true paint sample in situ before committing. Tester pots vary in price from £1 to £4. Paint onto a sheet of paper that you can move around the room to enable you to see the colour in different light conditions. The effect varies greatly. The window wall can seem dark while the wall opposite will be flooded with light. And of course there is a dramatic difference between natural and artificial light. Finally paint a patch directly onto the wall to gauge the colour, coverage and the final finish.

    Specialist wall, floor and furniture paints

    These days, there are paints to decorate every surface in the home, from melamine to ceramic tiles. Many of these formulas require no specialist preparation - Crown's Cupboard Makeover Paint is available in 12 colours and does not need a primer.

    There are also multi-surface paints, such as B&Q Colours Everywhere for walls, ceilings, woodwork and radiators, and Bedec MSP Multi Surface Paint, which can be used on everything from plastic to masonry. Areas such as bathrooms and kitchens benefit from durable, mildew-resistant coverings, which are available in pre-mixed colours.

    However, for the more discerning, Dulux Kitchen & Bathroom paint can be mixed in any one of its 1,200 colours, and Farrow & Ball is launching Modern Emulsion. Designed to complement its original Estate Emulsion, the paint has a slightly higher sheen, is fully washable and available in the full colour range.

    Specialist paints also include some exciting new finishes, such as suede effects, metallics and high-sheen lacquers. Judy Smith, colour consultant at Crown, suggests an accent wall in one of these to lift a neutral scheme. Crown's Feature Wall range, which includes eight metallic finishes, nine bright colours and a highly reflective Pure Brilliant White, comes in convenient 1.25 litre tins.

    If you have a timber floor that's not particularly attractive or is made from a patchwork of old and new wood, paint makes the perfect disguise. There are plenty of choices - all the colours from Farrow & Ball are available as floor paint and Nordic Style offers an elegant selection, too.

    Alternatively, a timber floor in good condition can be treated to a natural or tinted stain, which allows the grain to show through. Eve Johnson's Scandinavian woodcare oils will take the yellow edge off pine.

    If you are grappling with the problem of choosing a woodwork colour to go with neutral walls, check out Architectural Colours by David Oliver, the founder of Paint & Paper Library. He arranged his off-whites for ceilings, cornices, walls and woodwork in chromatical groups and the concept has been so well received that chromatically arranged colours, such as soft greys, greens and pinks, have been introduced.

    Exterior Masony and Woodwork Paints

    Specialist masonry and exterior woodwork paints are now available in many of the sophisticated colours offered for interiors.For example, the new Weathershield range of satin and gloss exterior paints from Dulux features innovative shades such as Wild Berries and Wild Roses.

    When choosing colours for exterior surfaces, consider the style of the brickwork or masonry of your home along with the colours used on nearby buildings, so as to pick colours that are sympathetic to these surroundings. Colours for fences and sheds should be selected with the same criteria in mind.

    Technical advancements are constantly being made to improve the life span, durability, wear and performance of exterior paints. The Akrylatfarg range at Ray Munn, for example, is an environmentally sound water-based option.

    Masonry paints come in a wide variety of finishes, from textured to ultra-smooth. Opt for a texture if you need to disguise fine surface cracks. If you favour traditional finishes, then consider limewash, which is available from specialists such as Francesca's Lime Wash. The beauty of this paint is that it will mellow and weather with time. However, do check with the supplier first to ensure that the surface is suitable for this finish.

    Traditional Paints

    Available from specialists such as Farrow & Ball and The Real Paint & Varnish Company, lime wash and distemper paints can be useful for restoration projects, although some of the contents are potentially hazardous and can irritate eyes and skin. Use the modern equivalents where possible, as these are usually safer and more effective.

    Cutting Down on Paint Chemicals

    Everyone knows the nasty smell of paint drying - worse with oil-based paints, but also noticeable with vinyl emulsions. This is caused by paint solvents containing VOCs. They are proven health risks, and can cause allergies, headaches and breathing problems and irritate eyes, nose and throat. They are also an environmental hazard.

    Following a European directive, the British paint industry has reduced VOCs in two stages, the second of which came into force in January last year.

    Five categories are used to describe VOC content. For guidance, a minimal VOC content is up to 0.29 per cent, whereas a very high VOC content is above 50 per cent. All brands have, where necessary, reformulated their ranges to give minimal VOC content.

    There is still no standard labelling scheme for paint. The blue globe label, pioneered by B&Q, led to VOC reduction on the mass market and has been adopted by other brands, while the European Ecolabel, recognised in 15 EU member states, looks like a flower and appears on brands such as Earthborn. Germany also has a Blue Angel label and there is a green Nordic Swan as well. You will find more detailed information on most of the paint company's websites, as well as a wealth of practical and design advice.

    Ecological Paint

    The "organic" paint brands, such as Ecos, which emerged in the late 1980s, heralded a new era of odourless paints, free of solvents and VOCs (volatile organic compounds) and paved the way for other companies' environmentally safe formulas. Following European legislation, the first stage in lowering the solvent content in paints and varnishes is set to come into force in 2007.

    Traditionally, the solvents or VOCs and other chemicals used to make paints easier to apply give off toxic fumes that seep into the atmosphere for years after application. Paints with reduced or no VOCs are healthier for decorators and the people whose homes are painted with them.

    The leading brands now flag up paints with lower VOCs and produce paints that are virtually odour-free - the Breatheasy range by Crown is one example. Most leading brands now produce high-quality water-based acrylic paints which outperform the older technologies of vinyl and oils.

    Today, it is increasingly easy to source ecologically sound paints, as most specialist ranges, such as Ecos, Earthborn, Georgina Barrow and Auro are available via mail order. There is a wealth of colour options in these pre-mixed ranges that include lush shades and muted palettes, reflecting their natural ingredients. Ecos continues to lead the field. It has recently developed Atmosphere Purifying Paint, which absorbs and neutralises volatile chemicals, solvents and VOCs from the atmosphere in a home.

    Get Expert Paint Colour Advice

    Thousands of shades may offer unparalleled choice, but of course it can be harder to pinpoint the right one for you. Dulux has responded with the Tailor Made range, which offers an easy-to-use colour-scheming chart that works with the 1,200 shades available to mix in-store.

    Paint & Paper Library arranges its colours in five shades from light to dark to help select coordinating colours for ceilings, cornices, walls, doors and woodwork. If you are decorating around bold furnishings, such as a sofa or curtains, look at paint colours from the same fabric house as they are most likely to be sympathetic.

    Malabar and Designers Guild offer some striking brights while the new Shades of Sanderson comprises 120 colours tailored to Sanderson's collections. If you are aiming for a more subtle backdrop that will flow through several rooms, it's wise to stick to neutral shades. Kevin McCloud's Elements of Colour for Fired Earth works especially well with our cool, northern light.

    Paint Glossary

    Distemper - A traditional water-based paint made from animal and natural resins, which dries to a velvety matt finish. Primarily used on ceilings and plaster mouldings, and to give furniture an aged effect, but not suitable for areas of high wear. Available to order from specialist companies.

    Eggshell - Traditionally refers to an oil-based paint with a silky finish, suitable for interior walls and woodwork. Water-based alternatives are now available.

    Flat or Dead-Flat Oil - Provides a completely flat, oil-based finish. Generally used on walls but not suitable for areas of high wear.

    Gloss - These paints have a high sheen level and are usually used on woodwork.

    Limewash - Made from slaked lime and water, this paint is good for porous surfaces such as brickwork, render and plaster and gives a chalky finish. It is available from specialist companies.

    Matt - Describes paints that give a flat, non-reflective finish. It is ideal for walls and ceilings that are not perfectly smooth. Satin or silk - Water-based vinyl or acrylic paint for walls in high-wear areas, such as hallways and kitchens. A satin finish will be slightly shinier than silk.

    Satinwood or semi-gloss - These paints are commonly used on woodwork, such as skirting boards. This sheen level is between eggshell and gloss. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/3833727

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  • Exterior Painting Shortcuts to Avoid

    Exterior Painting Shortcuts to Avoid

    Exterior paint has gone up in price almost twice as much since 1995, however the R&D (research and development) has followed, making most exterior paints lasting much longer as well. Knowing the expense of high quality 100% Acrylic paints now available, coupled with other various materials, time and labor, most who have an exterior painting job performed, do not wish repeating this any time in the immediate future.

    Now, most exterior painting jobs are lasting any where from 12-25 years, depending on the quality of exterior paint. However, even using the very best products and materials will not insure paint warranty listed on the can. The following are key shortcuts to avoid when painting an exterior, insuring lasting beauty and protection from weathers harsh elements.

    1) Never apply and painting materials the same day of power washing: This applies to caulk and primer. Allowing the substrate to completely dry out from cracks and crevices, normally 24-48 hours after power washing has taken place will ensure a dry surface for these products to adhere and bond to. Many times unscrupulous painting contractors who are in a hurry to start and finish an exterior painting job will start caulking and priming the same day of power washing, which is a big no-no.

    2) Do not think power washing takes the place of scraping: After power washing is completed, and completely dried back out, hand scraping is necessary. Power washing only removes dirt and grime, and large chunks of paint that has lifted up, curling. High pressure washing will damage the wood surface, washing too close to surface, so using a hand scraper is the order of business, just like a dentist uses a tool to check for cavities.

    3) Caulking over old caulk: Aged caulk will many times separate from at least one surface substrate, if not both, at 90 degree angles, say where trim meets siding. Never caulk over old caulk, as this separation has already taken place with old caulk, and new caulk will follow the same lines of separation if old caulk is not removed. A little more time is involved, but well worth the efforts, before any exterior paint is applied.

    4) Do not paint over bare wood areas with finish coat paint: Bare wood will receive primer much better than trim or body paint in your choice of colors will. Exterior primers are designed having better bonding materials within the paint than finish coats, thereby allowing the finish coats to bond to exterior primers much better than bare wood. Once all loose flaking paint has been removed, apply a thick uniform coat of exterior primer on all bare wood surfaces.

    5) Do not think 1 coat is adequate: Every paint manufacture has recommended mill thicknesses for the paint warranty. Knowing more paint is needed, this recommendation is not designed to line the pocketbooks of the painting companies, but how the particular paint was tested before rolling out to the public, spending countless dollars on R&D. Yes, paint manufactures will benefit with more paint purchased, however you will benefit as well following directions listed on the paint can, for a sound uniform and quality finish. Exterior painting normally requires 13-16 mills wet. This can be achieved by applying 2 separate coats wet on dry method of 6-10 mills of wet paint each.

    Top quality painting contractors follow these suggestions without question. It is a good idea to ask questions, and observe any work taking place when hiring this out, knowing none of these debilitating shortcuts will eventually impede the quality for years to come. Also when picking out a top quality painting contractor, see other painting services offered, from interior painting, to deck cleaning, deck staining, siding repairs and siding replacements.

    Eco Paint Specialist's or it's affiliates do not take any responsibility of any outcomes of this article. Denver's House Painting Authority, Cal Phillips & Eco Paint Specialist's Inc.

    Denver Painting Contractor, Eco Paint Specialist's of Denver Colorado Springs and Colorado's Front Range. Leading Painting Contractor having over 32 years experience, providing complete and professional painting of homes and businesses with 10's of 1000's of satisfied customers. Eco Paint Specialist's IE. Eco Paint was the first to coin the phrase Eco Paint within it's company name back in 1993, long before Green Earth Friendly Eco Paint became available to the retail sector, by 1999-2000. Eco Paint offers Free in Home Color Consultation for the perfect up to date color combination, adding value, beauty, and protection for interior painting and exterior painting.

    Eco Paint always thinking of the customer, adding security and convenience, leading the Painting Industry once again, the first company of it's kind providing painting customers the ability to pay online through an SSL secure encrypted Online Payment Form on it's Flagship Web Site, in text links listed above.

    Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Cal_Phillips/511185

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  • Painting a Room

    Painting a Room

    Paint Preparation

    This is the most time-consuming part of painting. That blue tape or masking tape in the hardware store is a necessity in keeping clean lines and paint off the windows or doors. Tape the part that is not to be painted. The tape will stop the paint from leaking through if the line is not exactly perfect. Unfortunately, taping everything will take some time.

    Move heavy furniture to the middle of the room. Move smaller furniture completely out of the room. Cover the furniture to protect against the occasional paint splatter. Accidents do happen. But hopefully, not on the furniture.

    Cover the floor with plastic or a canvas. Plastic is better to prevent paint seepage into the floor when the paint can gets knocked over. Canvas will absorb the paint but it might seep through for large amounts.

    Prepare the wall for paint by ensuring all the holes are patched up and the walls are clean. Painting over holes will not make them disappear. The end result will look weird if the holes merely have paint covering them. Follow the directions of the patch kit. Allow time for the patching to dry.


    Patch kit Blue tape or masking tape Plastic or canvas tarp Furniture coverings Ladder or extensions for high places Wet towels for easy clean-up Old clothes Wall Paint Pry bar, usually comes with the paint can Paint brushes Paint rollers Roller pans Straight Edge that can be painted Types of Paint Primer paint is good to use if the wall color is particularly dark or a lot of patching was needed on the walls. It hides the flaws and less coats of paint are needed when using a primer. The primer can be tinted if necessary for darker color choices.

    There are two bases for paint. Latex and oil based paints. Latex paints have a few advantages over oil-based paint. They are more durable, have less fumes and clean-up easily with water. Interior house paint is best for indoor use.

    There are three classifications for paint, flat, semi-gloss, and high gloss. This just explains the type of shine the walls will have when the painting is done. Flat will have no shine. Semi-gloss is not as shiny as high gloss. Semi-gloss is a happy medium.


    Painting can begin either with the cutting in or the wall itself. Cutting in means painting all the edges that a roller can not reach. A straight edge can come in handy when dealing with ceilings, floors, or window edges. This will keep the unwanted surface from being painted and will help with keeping lines straight. Too much paint on the paint brush can cause drips, so wipe off some of the excess before painting.

    When painting the main wall, use the roller and paint in a w shape. Overlap the paint until all surfaces are covered. Refill the roller as needed and do not allow it to get to dry. Painting with a roller will proceed quickly. Immediate progress will be seen. This will take the shortest amount of time to complete.

    Textured paint and wall paint designs can add a different look to the regularly painted wall. Texture paint can hid flaws and have a variety of rollers that create a wide variety of looks. Wall paint designs are usually stencils but can be homemade. Painting a large sequence of stencils is very tedious and time-consuming so keep that in mind before making a decision.

    Painting is a good project for a do-it-yourself beginner. Painting makes a visual impact and brings a sense of accomplishment. It can inspire bigger and better projects for the homeowner.

    Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Parth_Mudgal/695194

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  • So You Want to Know How to Paint in Oil Like Van Gogh and Picasso? Here's Oil Painting 101!

    So You Want to Know How to Paint in Oil Like Van Gogh and Picasso? Here's Oil Painting 101!

    Painting in oil has long been a mysterious process the public has believed was relegated to the few and the eccentric. Artists and their lives have always been an unusual breed, but painting a large body of original oil paintings has also been a sure-fire way to drive oneself into immortality. The paintings will always be there, traveling through history, with your name on it! So by this definition it's definitely a noble profession. Think Dali, van Gogh, Picasso, Rembrandt and da Vinci. Each enjoys a lofty reputation for what others might consider crafts. And their reputations only grow bigger over time. What other profession offers that possibility? So who got the last laugh? Well, van Gogh did, of course. He's forever immortalized as one of the greatest humans to have ever lived. Not bad for someone who never made a dime in his own lifetime. But in the age of the Internet and the worldwide marketplace, artists don't have to starve anymore. I'm not starving, and I'm making money doing what I love. I can also work anywhere, whether I'm on vacation or traveling to exotic locales. I love that the most about it. I can do whatever I want and wherever I want, and post a painting for sale from Ibiza, Paris, London.... or Omaha. I wouldn't trade with anyone. And you won't either if you work at it and treat as a way to offer beauty to the world and get paid for it!

    The purpose of this article is to take the mystery out of the process of painting. This article is only written to get you started. I'll write more detailed techniques later. But this article will set you on your way to experimenting and having fun with paint. Ultimately it's like anything in this world. Before you have the knowledge, it's complicated. But once you have it, it's easy! Knowledge is power, and this phenomenon definitely applies to painting. The technical aspects are the easy part. Anyone can do it. You ultimately could be as capable as Monet with practice. We humans can do whatever we decide to do! Deciding WHAT to paint is the hard part. It takes discipline and a singularly focused desire to create one painting after another. For whatever reason, I loved it the minute I started. And I never looked back. I love it today as much as I did over 16 years ago. I never have "writer's block" either as to what to paint. I just paint from my experiences in life. So don't think too hard on it. Paint that apple sitting on the table, or paint the tree in your own back yard, paint your girlfriend in an unusual way. But paint something that means something to you, that's all that matters. Make it funky, make it interesting. If it's abstract, remember that abstract art has long been the most desirable. It's an expression of the individual, make it unique. For those who want realism, take a picture. What's amazing is that once you do it, you realize it's the ultimate escape into happiness. Suddenly you forget your problems for that period of time. You have control, and no one can take it away from you once you are skilled at painting. The process is addicting. But like anything, you must START! And once you do, look out....you'll be hooked.

    OK, let's get started. Step one...supplies. You need a flat brush, a fan, a small detail brush and a couple of Filberts. A filbert is a rounded edge brush that lets you maneuver the paint easily without going outside the edges. Ultimately buy brushes that you like though, and make them work. Fans allow you to blend, for example. I use fans a lot and it's how I graduate color throughout my images. Everything I paint is by hand....no airbrushing or assistants. I want it to be an expression of me and nobody else. You also need an oil painting medium to mix with the oil paint to make it more fluid, and to speed or slow the drying process. Whichever you prefer. Go to the art store and don't be afraid to ask for help....they'll love helping you! A medium is merely an additive liquid which increases gloss, makes it flow easily, preserves the finish over time, keeps it from yellowing. I personally love Galkyd and Galkyd Lite. If that isn't available, buy a medium that looks like liquid amber and is kind of thick. Don't buy watery looking mediums....too hard to work with.

    The lite version of Galkyd is simply thinner. I use it more than the other. I love it. Paintings I did 16 years ago using Galkyds look as pristine as the day I painted them. You'll also need a canvas and some paint. I buy a tube of red, green, blue, purple, yellow, brown, white and black. I prefer what's called Ivory Black and a soft mixing white as you'll add white to a lot of different colors to make lighter versions. From these basic colors you can make any exotic color by mixing them in combination's. Be creative and experiment. And don't be afraid of color, because color is the most popular in museums! The bright paintings are historically the crowd favorites. As for color variety from these basic colors, mix red and white to make pink, mix yellow with green to make lime green, white with blue to make light blue, white with black to make gray, etc. Use your common sense and play with it! You'll also need pencils, an eraser and some Turpentine or Turpentine substitute. Keep your brushes soaking in it in a plastic cup to keep them clean and ready for your next color choice.... and to keep them from drying out.

    Now, decide WHAT you want to paint. Very important...you do NOT need to know how to draw. That's the great thing about painting, you can create even if you've never had a lesson. Don't get me wrong, art school is great. But don't let the lack thereof deter you from creating. You do not have to have a teacher to tell you how to create. You do need to know a few basic techniques, but from there let your imagination fly! When deciding what to paint, go to some websites about artists or Google famous artists to get inspired. Again, do not let a lack of training deter you from painting! Many of the great artists of the past had no training either. Many can't draw stick figures, but they can paint because the colors give you amazing options of expression! You may also go to my websites mentioned below or Google me to see all the crazy work I've created. My personal preference has been to create a large variety of work to keep it interesting and versatile. I did not want to be that artist who only painted one thing over and over. To me that's boring, and it should be boring to you too. Any known artist of the past has a vast variety of work. You'll also find that it makes it more interesting to you while you're doing it, because you won't ever get bored, you'll always be wondering how it'll turn out.

    Step two: Now roughly draw onto the canvas what you want to create in paint. Don't worry, it does not have to be perfect. Your cool application of paint from your innermost imagination will make it look good. If you mess up with the pencil, simply erase it off and start over. Warning: resist the urge to simply copy some artist's painting from the past. That's career suicide, and so boring. You're smart, make your own art. It's much more interesting and unique. A copy of a painting from the past has the sole purpose of making you look like a copycat, and who needs that on their resume? Remember, deciding WHAT to paint is the hardest part. But once you get into the flow it will come to you, I promise. Paint from your own life is the best career advice as a painter. Truth is more bizarre than fiction anyway. And I believe people like to kind of know what they're looking at, as opposed to simply painting a solid layer of red and calling it art. Be creative, go with the flow, don't over think it. Paint what you want to paint and the world will ultimately find it interesting. After all, it's YOUR art. Painting nature is always a good idea, as nature never goes out of style.

    Step three: go online and study the basics of shadow and light. It's a visual thing, and too complicated to talk about here. But once you see it, it'll come to you quickly. Simply Google "shadow and light in painting" and the basics will come up. Once you know these rules, you can apply it to any shape, any form, any painting. And it'll make you keenly aware of shadow and light on virtually any object on earth. It's what makes a painting three- dimensional and expensive looking. You can also buy art books on shadow and light at any bookstore. But make sure you sit down for a couple of hours and study it. It will come quickly to you, I promise.

    Step four: the key to a finished looking painting is to build it just like a house...and by that I mean layers. Paint it in the reverse order in which the eye sees it to make it three-dimensional. By this I mean paint what's farthest from the eye first, and build layer upon layer towards the eye. In other words, do the background first because it should be the farthest from the eye, then add the objects on top of that, and then add the shadows to complete the look. Ultimately it's common sense. If you paint a bowl of fruit, the bowl and fruit need to sit on top of that background, much as it would in real life.

    Step five: pick your colors and start applying them to your penciled outlined images...make sure to mix the paints with a little Galkyd. Painting right out the tube is probably a bad idea, and it'll take forever to dry. Mix the Galkyd pretty evenly with the paint until you reach your desired thickness of paint. Less Galkyd keeps the paint thick. More makes it thinner. A safe start for a painting subject is a still life, like a bowl of fruit. No matter what you do...within reason...it'll look cool. You do not have to make a twig brown or an apple red just because nature says so. Use your imagination. Do something different. Collectors over time like to watch you evolve painting by painting anyway. So don't worry if your first painting stinks in your mind. It'll be interesting later once you're great. And by the way, most famous paintings have an under drawing, so they've used this layout technique I mention above. Sorry to tell you, most inspired paintings were planned out with pencil first. They did not happen spontaneously. They were built logically and in a defined order so that the end result looks right.

    OK, now let it dry overnight. The next day....or whenever you get around to it....mix a lot of Galkyd with just a little bit of color and glaze it over the first layer. Layer upon layer....allowing each layer to dry... is what makes paintings look finished and interesting and expensive in my view. Certainly you can paint wet on wet, as van Gogh did. But that's a much harder proposition we'll talk about later. You can put as many layers as you wish until you get your desired look. A thin glaze of Galkyd with just a little black works great on top of any dried color underneath. It give it an antique and finished look. But be careful not to add too much black. Don't worry, if you put too much just wipe it off and start over. That's the great thing about oil is it dries slower and you can tweak, correct, start over before it dries. Tip: a thin layer of yellow glaze looks good on top of almost any color too. A thin glaze of green looks good over blue, a thin glaze of blue looks good over purple. But ultimately you can pick and choose and experiment with which color to add to your glazes. There are no rules. Invent ones of your own. A thin glaze of yellow on top of a dried layer of red looks awesome. A thin layer of yellow on boring brown make it look like expensive and not-boring brown. You get the idea. But make the process your own and have fun with it. No one will ever do it quite the way you do, and that's what's interesting about the process.

    Step six: once you get all the layers just like you like, let it dry thoroughly for several days. Now take black and apply the shadows with your clean brush in keeping with the laws of shadow and light like you've learned earlier. If you put too much, wipe it back with a Q-tip or a rag until it looks like a shadow. Make sure you're putting shadows on top of only dry under layers. Always clean your brushes in between colors to keep the colors isolated and pure too. You don't want blue in your shadows, for example. Study my paintings if you wish because I do a lot of distinct shadows and I light things like vases, leaves, birds, fruit, etc. in ways that I think will stand out to you. Like if I paint a vase the bottom of the vase is darker than the top. Just like in real life. This applies to any shape whether it be a face or an apple or a vase. Also look at my backgrounds, as I've done a lot of them. Notice how each background is a multitude of layers to give it a finished and complicated look. Glazes allow me to reach this end. When I started out I didn't know what I was doing and friends and family thought I was crazy. And the very same people act like they knew I'd make it now that I have. Oh well, it's the way of the world. But stick with it and you'll be enlightened and inspired over time!

    In conclusion, this article has really just been a "Painting 101" exercise. I'll be adding more articles on the subject once you get more advanced. It's so rewarding to those who stick with it. My work now sells around the world online. So I'm glad I'm glad I stuck with it. It's been infinitely good to me, I've met the most interesting people....including Madonna! And I am so glad I get to do what I want And ultimately it's so gratifying to leave expressions of myself behind forever. And if the owners then turn around and sell my paintings for a fortune later, then that's the cherry on top for me. I feel lucky to have found my calling. And I hope you find it too. And I hope that every single time you view one of my paintings it brings you a little bit of the amazing joy it brought me when I was creating it.

    Feel free to email me if you have questions at the email addresses below. But most important, you'll find that with each painting you'll get better and better. Carry forward everything you learn from each work and eventually you'll have real talent! But only if you keep at it. And don't worry about people telling you you're crazy. They told that to van Gogh too! Sweet justice Vincent, sweet justice. He's certainly getting the last laugh, isn't he? And the world will know who Vincent van Gogh was for the rest of time. Not a bad gig.

    Steve McElroy is an author and collected artist who works in oil. His ever-growing body of work, now numbering over 1,000 oil paintings, now hangs around the world. His work is in the collections of Mercedes-Benz, Mattel, Absolut Vodka, Madonna and private collectors around the world. You may view his work, accomplishments and websites by Googling Steve McElroy Artist. He is one of a few living artists listed with da Vinci, Cezanne, van Gogh, Dali, Rembrandt and other know artists at http://www.ARTmm.com in their Portfolio section. His new original work can be found for sale at http://www.eBid.net by entering Steve McElroy in the search window.

    Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Steve_Mcelroy/775230

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  • Minimize How Much Paint You Need by Maximizing Your Paint Color Coverage

    Minimize How Much Paint You Need by Maximizing Your Paint Color Coverage

    How Much Paint You Really Need

    How much paint you will need to satisfactorily complete a paint project is determined by 2 factors. The first, paint coverage, is a familiar concept to most people. It simply concerns the square footage of surface area to be painted, and "paint coverage calculators" abound on the web. However, the second concept, paint color coverage, has a much more pronounced effect on how much paint will be needed and the cost of paint projects. Unfortunately, paint color coverage is a novel concept to many painters and, in fact, is poorly understood even by many professionals. Knowing the secrets of paint color coverage will allow you to reduce the number coats you have to apply and minimize how much paint you have to buy.

    Paint color coverage refers to the fact that new coats of paint are always affected by the pre-existing colors on the surface before the fresh coats are applied. This fact is unavoidable, but there are a few tricks that will help you overcome this problem and may save you hundreds on your next paint project. These money-saving secrets relate to how you use your primer.

    Reasons to Use Primer with Paint

    Primer plays 2 important roles in painting projects. Firstly, if you are painting a wall that has never been painted (with water-based paint) before, primer will allow your new paint to stick (or "mechanically bond") to the surface. Since primer is typically not necessary if the wall has previously been painted, many people skip this step. Unfortunately, doing so negates its 2nd (often, more valuable) role in color coverage.

    There are 2 methods for using primer to aid in color coverage. In the first case, when applying light color paint to a darker wall color, you can maximize your color coverage by applying a white primer coat before applying your new paint. In the second case, when painting dark color paint onto a lighter wall color, maximize your color coverage by having your primer "tinted" the same color as your new paint. Many people are surprised to learn that this is possible. But the fact is, your local paint retailer will happily add any color they carry to any primer you want (thereby "tinting" it) for free!

    Use Plain White Primer for Light Paint Colors

    In our first case, if you decide to paint a wall in your house with a light yellow color, but the wall is currently a deep dark brown, you will go through bucket after bucket of paint trying to cover that brown, easily doing 4 - 6 coats or more. But if you put down a coat of white primer first, you could be done after 2 coats of paint.

    The reasoning here is simple. Every color in the visible spectrum can be assigned a number based on a luminosity scale (a scale from light to dark) from 0 to 9 where white is 0 and black is 9. Now suppose that the brown you are trying to cover has a score of 8, and the yellow paint you want to apply has a 4.

    When you apply a coat of paint to a wall, it doesn't fully cover the surface, so the new paint color essentially mixes with the color of the wall. Suppose that mixing these 2 colors produces a new color that is essentially the average of the first 2, so the first coat of yellow over the brown will give you a color with a luminosity score of 6 (8+4=12, 12/2=6). After that dries, adding another coat of yellow (score of 4) brings the color on the wall to a score of 5.

    Like this, it will actually take quite a while to reach a number that is close enough to the yellow color you've chosen that you can't tell any difference (and mathematically, you will never actually reach an average of 4!)

    However, if you put a coat of pure white primer (which has a score of 0) on top of the brown color wall first, this immediately brings your luminosity score down to 4 (8 + 0 = 8/2 = 4, the average). This means you may only need one coat of yellow paint to give you the right hue and saturation. In reality of course, you will always want to do at least 2 coats. But even with a total of 3 coats (primer and paint) you are way ahead of the paint-only option.

    Use Tinted Primer for Dark Paint Colors

    In our second case, suppose you want to apply a deep, dark blue to a beige wall. The good news is that it will be easier to darken a light color than it was to lighten a dark color. In fact, it may only take 2 - 4 coats to get total color coverage in this scenario. The bad news is that if you start out with a white primer you are already moving in the wrong direction. Doing so could increase the number of paint coats you need to 3 - 6... plus the coat of primer! That's a lot of painting!

    Fortunately, you can always get your primer tinted for free. Getting your primer colored the same as your paint will save you a coat of paint. Of course, I always recommend doing a minimum of 2 coats of paint so that your finish sheen looks consistent.

    Even if you don't need to apply a coat of primer before your new coats of paint, doing so will always save you money. Whether you use white or tinted primer, a coat of primer is always more cost effective for one simple reason: It is cheaper! In fact, primer may cost as little as half as much as standard paint. If you get it tinted the same as your paint, then it is cheaper by the coat. If you use white, as in the first scenario above, it will also minimize the number of coats of paint you have to apply. Either way it reduces how much paint you have to buy.

    Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/E._W._Ennis/998688

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